Q&A

The estimated next arrival for out-of-stock items is shown on the product page.

Examples:
Next arrival: TBD
The restock date is undetermined and we are currently unable to confirm it.
In this case, we cannot answer delivery date inquiries by email or phone.

Next arrival: TBD (● days or more)
The restock date is undetermined, and arrival will take at least "● days or more".
*In this case we cannot give a detailed delivery date. Please treat it only as a guideline.
*Items may miss a shipment, or other unexpected major delays may occur. Thank you for your understanding.

Next arrival: early ● (month) onward
Arrival is expected around early ● (month) or later.
*Items may miss a shipment, or other unexpected major delays may occur. Thank you for your understanding.

Items with a scheduled arrival can be ordered with the "Pre-order" button on the product page. They will ship in order as soon as they arrive.

*If you only want to be notified of the arrival, please contact us via Contact form with the product name (Part No.).

Why some items take a long time to arrive
• About 80% of GOODS' overseas products are supplied by a parts manufacturer called EMGO.
• EMGO has hundreds of dealers worldwide, and GOODS is its sole distributor in Japan.
• Factories have a minimum order quantity before they will start production.
(For example, the minimum for headlights is 500.)
• Orders are placed with the factory by EMGO, not by us.
So production does not even start until orders totaling 500 pieces are collected from its partner dealers around the world.

We sincerely apologize to customers waiting for items to arrive, and thank you for your patience.

We stock every product listed online, so you can see and buy items directly at our shop.
However, we keep only limited stock in the shop. Depending on stock, an item may not be available at the shop, so we recommend checking stock before visiting.

Installation is available at "Motor Garage GOODS".
Please feel free to contact us to check labor costs or make a reservation.

Contact: Motor Garage GOODS (email only)

Model-specific items:
Installation instructions are posted on the product page, so please check there.
*If installation is the same as for the stock part, instructions may be omitted.

Universal items:
We do not answer questions about installing "universal items", which assume modification and some ingenuity on your part.

We stock every product listed online, so you can see and buy items directly at our shop. However, we keep only limited stock in the shop. Depending on stock, an item may not be available at the shop, so we recommend calling ahead to check before visiting.

As a rule, we may not be able to answer questions about the dimensions of individual parts.
Thank you for your understanding.

Wholesale is available from just one item (no annual fees or other charges).

*Our wholesale is limited to businesses operating in the motorcycle industry (with or without a physical shop).

★Wholesale through this website
Dealer registration application form - please apply here. After review, we will notify you when registration is complete. Once registered, log in to see and order at wholesale prices. For details, see About Wholesale.

★Wholesale by FAX
Please send your order form by FAX (+81-6-6865-4000).
*For your first transaction, please include your company stamp and business card with the FAX.

Currently you can choose cash on delivery (cash or card, Japan only) or bank transfer (credit card and pay later (Paidy) are coming soon).

For details, see Payment Methods.

International orders are paid by PayPal or bank wire transfer (T/T).
We will send you the payment details together with your quote.


*Transfer fees are paid by the customer.

[Order subtotal under ¥20,000]
Standard shipping: ¥700 / Hokkaido: ¥2,400 / Okinawa: ¥2,600
*All prices exclude tax

[Order subtotal ¥20,000 or more]
Standard shipping: ¥0 / Hokkaido: ¥1,300 / Okinawa: ¥1,500
*All prices exclude tax

Relay charges for remote islands vary by region.

For details, see Shipping & Fees - please check this page.

Orders placed by 15:00 (excluding our holidays) ship the same day, so delivery can be as soon as the next day.
*For bank transfer, items ship once payment has been confirmed.
If you're in a hurry, we recommend cash on delivery.

We are sorry, but we do not guarantee delivery times.
You can specify a delivery date, and items normally arrive in about 1-2 days,
but delivery may be significantly delayed due to Sagawa Express, traffic conditions during transport and other factors.
We make every effort to ship as quickly as possible, but we cannot promise an arrival date or time. Thank you for your understanding.
Please note that we offer no compensation of any kind for shipping delays.

Yes. When ordering, please write "Hold at depot" in the notes field.
*You cannot choose the depot. The item will be held at the depot that serves your delivery area.

*In neither case A nor B below do we issue receipts. Thank you for your understanding.

A. For bank transfer
The transfer proof issued by your financial institution at the time of payment, such as a transaction statement or transfer receipt, serves as our receipt. It is an official receipt accepted by the tax office, so there is no accounting problem.

B. For cash on delivery
The carrier's shipping slip serves as our receipt. It is an official receipt accepted by the tax office, so there is no accounting problem. *For cash on delivery, the receipt is addressed to the delivery recipient's name.

Cancellations and additions are possible if you contact us by 15:00 on the shipping day.
Please note that we do not accept any cancellations or additions after 15:00.

Please note that we do not accept returns or exchanges for customer reasons under any circumstances.
Exchanges & Returns - please check this page.

We take great care to prevent defects, malfunctions, dimensional errors and the like, but
if you find a problem, such as a product not fitting your bike, please contact us.

[Checking defects]
• If the symptom can be checked without the actual item, we will investigate promptly and advise you.
• If we cannot check without the actual item, we will ask you to return it once so we can investigate and respond.

[Handling defects]
• If an item is defective, we will exchange it for a new one or accept a return.
• The warranty covers the product only.
*Labor for installation, painting costs and the like are not covered. Thank you for your understanding.
*Please inspect the product before installing it.

[Round-trip shipping costs]
• If the product is found to be defective: we pay round-trip shipping.
• If no defect is found: the customer pays round-trip shipping.

*Please also check the Q&A for each product category.

Our handlebar measurements are not the height once the bars are mounted on the bike.
Please check "About listed dimensions" on each product page again.

Mirror threads by manufacturer are as follows:
YAMAHA: right = reverse thread, left = standard thread
KAWASAKI/HONDA/SUZUKI: standard thread on both sides

The mirror cannot be secured without clamping, so clamp marks will occur.

Brake switches cannot be installed on our universal levers.
*Old Honda style levers accept a separately sold brake switch.

Universal levers have a slightly tight bore relative to the handlebar diameter.
When installing, remove the clamp bolts, open the clamp slightly, and then fit it onto the handlebar.

Depending on the lever and the model, the cable may have trouble reaching.
In that case, it may be possible to solve this by, for example, shifting the position of the clutch cable mount (engine side).

We do not carry a cable that fits this lever.
Installation and use may require modification of the lever or the cable and some ingenuity.
Please note that we cannot answer how to modify it for each model or use.

• Have you chosen the correct cable "Type"? Please check the product page.

• Is the cable fully inserted into the throttle-side socket?
*The fit is slightly stiff to prevent the cable from pulling out.

• Please check the table on each universal cable product page.
*We have no fitment data for models not listed in the table.
In that case, please refer to "How to check fitment" and decide for yourself.

Yes, it fits the PC18 carburetor.
*Fits our AMAL throttle holder only.

• The XS650 has a short inner cable, so the cable end (barrel) needs to be refitted.
*Either a Type 1 or Type 2 cable can be fitted after modification.

=========================
*With the chrome throttle holder 22.2mm, it can be fitted to the XS as follows:

★Chrome throttle holder 22.2mm + conversion adapter
This item has been discontinued.
★Type 1 cable
Category list

We are sorry, but we currently have no data.
Please check the cable end shape, inner length and so on in the diagram above to decide whether it can be used.
We will add information to the product page as data for each model becomes available.

TYPE 1 cables fit VM carbs, and TYPE 2 cables fit CV carbs.

They don't seem to be sold at hardware stores - what size are they? Or are they non-standard?

Based on our measurements, they are very likely No.12-28 UNF, a quite unusual pitch.
We searched as well, but they are probably not commercially available, so replacing the screws would be difficult.

We are sorry, but we currently do not carry the screws alone as replacement parts.

In practice, there is no operational problem without the position adjustment screw.
*When we build bikes ourselves, we sometimes remove that screw before installing.

• Depending on the make and model, wiring such as the kill switch may need to be dealt with.
For details, please see here. *We cannot answer installation procedures or details for each model.

We have not received any reports of trouble from our customers using a single-pull cable,
so there is no problem as long as you understand the specifications before use.
The main risk of a single pull without a return cable is that the throttle can stick open,
due to things like the throttle sticking or the carburetor throttle valve sticking from vacuum,
leaving the throttle stuck open.
The return cable is essentially a manufacturer safety measure, but if something physically gets caught,
it most likely won't help even with a return cable.
(Foreign bikes, older bikes and even small-displacement Japanese bikes use single-pull cables.)

• Throttle sticking
The throttle holder and cable need regular greasing and cleaning.
If it happens, you can deal with it by disengaging power with the clutch, or shutting off the engine with the kill switch or main key.

• Throttle valve sticking
With an FCR, the throttle valve is supported by bearings,
so this almost never happens unless something inside breaks.

The full-throttle stopper is #12-40, a special pitch.
The lower anti-rattle screw is #12-28 UNF (Unified fine thread).

By adjusting the light bracket and headlight position, you can keep the stock main key,
but space is limited, so we recommend relocating it.
*Main keys with an immobilizer must be relocated.

How to install the SR stock headlight unit or the dedicated light unit is shown below.

The Lucas light can be installed on the SR400 (including FI) using the pipe light bracket.

It is for Japan (left-hand traffic).

It cannot be fitted as is, but we have fitted one with minor modification.

• HD stock unit
It is thicker than the Bates light unit, so the tabs where the unit touches the light case need to be bent slightly.

• LED unit
Limited to the HD stock 5-3/4 and units we sell.
Bend the tabs as above.
In addition, you need to remove the indicator bulb at the top of the light, bend the tabs that hold it,
and use small connections such as bullet connectors for the wiring.

*Bending the tabs too far carries risks such as a loose fit, so this is not covered by warranty.

If it is only the headlight wiring, it can fit with some ingenuity, such as switching to bullet connectors.
*There is not enough room for other wiring.

The wiring itself can fit, but depending on the switch box and number of couplers used, it may not.
*In that case, some ingenuity is needed, such as replacing couplers with bullet connectors.

On models such as the SR400, GB350, W800/600/400 and ST250, the turn signals are mounted on the stock headlight bracket,
and the stock headlight bracket cannot be used, so the turn signals need to be relocated.

Turn signal wattage differs by model.
*Fitting turn signals (bulbs) with a different wattage causes hyper-flashing.
Please check the wattage of the original turn signal bulbs.

To fix it by replacing bulbs... >>12V23W turn signal<< *Check the compatible bulb type
To fix it by replacing the relay... >>Turn signal relay<<

Related articles

• Is the wiring connected correctly?
• Is the bulb burned out? • Is it properly grounded?
*It grounds through the frame (body ground).
*Please retighten the bolts and nuts on each part of the unit.
*Note that thick paint on the frame makes it harder to get a body ground.

• If miswiring keeps the brake light on constantly, it tends to get hot, which can melt the lens.

*Due to their construction, some taillights have an extremely small gap between bulb and lens.
Such taillights may not be suited to long rides (hundreds of km continuously).
If the symptom occurs,
some ingenuity is needed, such as "switching to a lower-wattage taillight bulb"
or "switching to an LED-type bulb".

It does not pass inspection (please do not use it on public roads).
*The side position itself is OK, but the taillight must be centered or symmetrical left and right.
*Even if only the plate is relocated, a license plate light and reflector are required.
*Depending on the local Transport Bureau, rules on plate orientation and vertical mounting vary.

The XS650 also vibrates a lot, so the SR version would be ideal,
but the swingarm shape and shock mounting differ, so it would be difficult to fit as is.
*The SR and universal versions share the same body, but only the SR version allows two-point mounting.
The XS650 has holes in a similar position to the SR, so it may be possible to fit with washers to adjust the height or slight hole modification.

As long as the plate faces horizontally (straight back), mounting it on the side is not a problem.
There is also a requirement that it be "in an easily visible position so that the number can be identified without difficulty" (Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism).
As long as it is mounted so it is easy to see, it will not be a violation, so don't worry.

A flat lens area of at least 20cm2 is required for inspection, which is about 50cm in diameter.
For lenses with a bulge, such as the Crocker tail or early tail, you can calculate whether they pass.

*The Crocker tail is about 14cm2, so it does not comply.

Inspection-compliant size is roughly that of the vintage round tail.

It varies with the stiffness of the suspension, usage environment, mileage and so on, but
on the SR, which vibrates a lot, wear on lighting is high, and depending on individual product variation,
damage to the taillight, turn signals and headlight is a very real possibility.

For custom switches, you may need to provide wiring, bullet connectors, couplers and so on depending on your use.

We cannot answer wiring methods for each model.
If you cannot install it yourself, please ask a shop near you.

Up to 125V/3A.
*The starter motor momentarily draws dozens of amps.
A handlebar switch is not suitable for controlling that much current, so
the handlebar switch operates a separate relay (starter relay), which switches the large current on and off.

As a rule, we cannot make them.
Even if it were possible by making one-off fittings, it would become an expensive cable well over ¥10000.

The SR speedometer cable can be fitted to the TW, but its length differs from the TW stock cable.

SR standard = overall length 880mm
SR short = overall length 550mm

Please check the length of your current speedometer cable before deciding.

Replacement itself is possible, and there is no problem if you install the indicators separately.
(The fuel indicator cannot be LED.)

However, the stock meter has a sensor for fault diagnosis, and if you replace it with an aftermarket meter, the sensor reacts and the check lamp on the indicator blinks.
*The check lamp will blink, but the bike can still be ridden.
*Fault code 42, diagnostic code D07

Since an error appears, we cannot call it a fit, but it can be installed. Thank you for your understanding.

Is there a way to solve the indicator check lamp issue when installing an aftermarket meter?

As far as we know, there is currently no solution. When the meter's rotation signal is lost, the sensor activates and an error code appears.

Will the problem go away if I don't install the indicator? Or if I replace the cable itself?

The error code results from changing the meter regardless of whether an indicator is fitted, so replacing the speedometer will produce the error code.

I'd like to know if there is any workaround.

As far as we know, there are currently no parts that can fix this condition, so there is no workaround.

It cannot be used (because the stock meter is different).

About 30-35mm.
*If the rubber is compressed by a big bump, it may stroke up to about 40mm.

We have no fitment data for long swingarms from any manufacturer,
so whether it can be fitted is unknown.

It is a spring rate setting, so it's fine.
However, if it's too stiff, the shock to the chassis increases,
and if it's too loose, the spring will have play, which causes durability issues, so please be careful when adjusting.

---------
This adjustment is called preload adjustment.
It is actually a fairly complex subject, but in simple terms of behavior:
• Tightening: it no longer moves under light forces (small bumps, etc.) and ride quality worsens, but it is less likely to bottom out. For big bumps, heavier riders, or riding two-up.
• Loosening: it starts working under light forces, making it comfortable around town, but it bottoms out more easily. When it bottoms out, you get a hard jolt.

Ride height cannot be adjusted.
*The nut below the spring is there to hold the spring, not to adjust ride height.

For example, the TW-MONO305 lowers the seat by 6cm, and the muffler position drops by the same amount, so it may still scrape in corners and the like.

The BIGBOY sits too low, so the rear frame (loop section) interferes with the tire.
To install it, you need to cut the rear frame, cap the cut surface (welding),
make and install a fender mount, shorten the side stand, and so on.

Here is the list of models we have confirmed so far:

SR = approx. 310mm
250TR = approx. 300mm
ESTRELLA = approx. 310mm
SRV250 = approx. 320mm
CB400SS = approx. 320mm
GRASSTRACKER = approx. 320mm
MAGNA = approx. 310mm
GB250 = approx. 335mm
SHADOW = approx. 310mm
VIRAGO = approx. 295mm

We had no exact fitment data, but we were able to obtain the following information:

• 16mm inner diameter top and bottom
• 280mm shocks can be fitted (265mm has some interference)
• Stock side stand requires modification

Based on this, we expect the lowering shock G-SUSPENSION 280 below can be used, but
Product page (old ID 100750)
Product page (old ID 100749)

considering that the stock side stand cannot be used and that some modification and ingenuity may be needed during installation,
we think it would be difficult for customers to install it themselves.

We would appreciate it if you visit our shop,
or, if you live far away, consult a shop near you.

First, regarding overhauls:
We currently do not offer suspension overhauls.
This is because a shock overhaul typically costs ¥30,000 or more, exceeding the price of the unit itself, so we have discontinued the service.

However, within 1 year of the purchase date (excluding purchases from auctions, etc.), we will exchange it free of charge.
Please send us the web shop statement, email history or similar from your purchase.

G-SUSPENSION 265 and G-SUSPENSION 265280 are not gas-charged,
while the other models -
G-SUSPENSION MONO305 (TW)
G-SUSPENSION MONO245 (DS, STEED)
GW Comfort Suspension (HD) - are gas-charged.

The springer fork itself can pass inspection, but the stock handlebar lock cannot be used, so inspection know-how is needed, such as using a cable lock.

Regarding modification applications for springer forks,
they pass without problems in Osaka and Kobe, but the view may differ by prefecture.

*In the past, we checked at the request of a customer in Aichi and received the following answer:

According to the Mikawa Transport Branch Office, no modification application is required; it is processed as a structural change since it is a change in dimensions.
Mikawa's view is that, for example, a car changing from leaf to coil springs requires a modification application,
but for motorcycles, changing from telescopic to springer is not covered - in fact it is not even mentioned.

Since it is a change in dimensions, no strength certification is required.
Therefore we have not prepared strength certification documents and cannot provide them.

However, it is not impossible that a local Transport Branch Office may say "A modification application is required, and so is a strength certificate",
so to be safe, before purchasing
you may want to discuss the above with your Transport Branch Office.

It is powder coated.

It cannot be fitted.

Compared with a stock fork it is stiffer with less stroke, so it moves only about 1cm when pushed by hand. This is not a defect.

Stroke is about 50mm, so large bumps and ups and downs produce a big impact.
*Especially if it bottoms out, you will clearly feel (and hear) the impact.

Please have maintenance done by a knowledgeable shop.
• Grease each sliding part by applying molybdenum grease directly or by using a grease gun.
• Regularly check all bolts and nuts with tools for looseness.
• If any are loose, tighten them to the proper torque.
• Regularly inspect not only the springer fork bolts and nuts but those on the whole bike.

We are sorry, but we do not offer plating for springs.

Q.
I have a 74 springer on a Shovelhead,
currently running a 16-inch front with a Grimeca brake.
To make it a bolt-on fit for the 74 springer:
1. Do you sell the shaft rod + the drum mounting "shuffle"(?) part (the rod-end/pillow ball part)?
The setup often seen on 74 springers, mounted to the 74 springer with left and right pillow balls -
is that strong enough?
2. A brake holder (for 1 inch) that works with the SR brake cable
Do people running an SR drum on a 74 springer
adapt a Harley brake holder and modify the cable part for the SR?
Or do they modify an SR brake holder for 1 inch bars?
If I have you make the above 2 items as bolt-on parts, roughly how much would it cost?
I'd also like to know the cost if I order just the parts.
I found a private builder who can install it, but when I consulted him,
he said the "shuffle" (pillow ball part) that mounts the SR drum to the 74 springer is the tricky part - whether pillow balls alone are strong enough - plus the brake holder modification;
those 2 issues would be the sticking points.
It is currently a 74 springer with a 16-inch (Grimeca setup).

A.
1. Do you sell the shaft rod + the drum mounting "shuffle"(?) part (the rod-end/pillow ball part)?
What you need to assemble it is:
• Axle shaft + nut + stepped collar + right wheel collar
• Support that receives the pillow ball mount + center shaft collar
• Machining of the SR brake drum (because the brake drum needs to float)
• SR hub + stock right collar
However, the springer we sell and the springer you currently use likely differ in various specifications, so it may not be possible to install without modification.
The decisive difference is that the pillow ball mounting position on the rear leg arm is different, so it must be relocated (cutting and welding required), and the hole must be machined from 3/8 to M10.
Extending the pillow ball will physically fit, but braking causes the fork to extend, so the front may bounce under full braking, which is dangerous.
If the inner fork width is different, making or modifying collars is required.

is that strong enough?
We believe it should be fine, but we have never tested it under the conditions of a Shovelhead's weight + high speed + full braking, so we cannot guarantee it.
As a reference from another company, it uses the same mechanism and size as the Road Hopper and similar products.
*Sometimes it is mounted to the drum only by tapping a thread into the drum, but we think that is high risk. It must go all the way through, with strength equal to or greater than a bolt and nut.

2. A brake holder (for 1 inch) that works with the SR brake cable
It will probably be a combination of an SR cable + a 1 inch brake lever (V-Twin, etc.), but
modifications will be matched to the actual parts, so it is difficult to give a specific price. (Whether modification is needed seems to depend on the lever.)

You mentioned you have a private builder who can assemble it, but overall, we think it is better to ask a shop that accepts carry-in work.
*Shops that customize vintage Harleys likely have experience with this.
The reasons we recommend this are:
• If the brake drum float is done wrong, fork movement is locked (the front temporarily becomes rigid).
• If you make your own cable end, for example, there is a risk it pulls out if not done well.
• The pillow ball mounting position changes how the fork behaves under braking
and so on.

If you plan to adapt parts for our springer with modification, we also sell individual parts.

Common lithium grease is fine.
Grease the grease nipples with an ordinary grease gun.
Grease it about every 2,000-3,000km, or roughly every six months.
If you ride in the rain often, it is better to do it more frequently.
Steering stem bearings will probably need replacing sooner than the service manual states,
but this should be judged by symptoms.

It passes inspection without a certificate.
If you would like a certificate, please contact Brembo.
The applicable product is below.
Part No.: 20.6951.22
OES series 2-piston caliper [nicknamed "Shin-Kani" (new crab)]

It is made by Gutts Chrome.

There are two types - the grease nipple for the springer fork body and the one for the SR caliper support - and both are available (list price ¥440 incl. tax).

If you want to use the brake panel on the stock fork again, it can be used by fabricating a dedicated spacer.
Let us know when you want to revert it. We will make one for ¥2,160.

With 16 inch, the fork side of the torque rod sits right at the side of the tire, so
depending on the tire, use a hex-head bolt inserted from the inside, and to keep the rod nearly parallel to the chassis,
adjust the offset with collars and washers on the brake panel side; then it can be fitted.

For a 520 chain it depends on the sprocket outer diameter (number of teeth), so we cannot say definitively.
If the sprocket outer diameter is the same size, the guideline from the link pitch is 110 links, or +6 links compared with the stock swingarm, but please measure on the actual bike.

Reference values
Swingarm length vs. stock: +52mm
520 link pitch: 15.875mm

The shock mount position is slightly different from stock.
(About 20mm back and 7mm down from stock.)

From the 1985 model year onward, it fits both the SR400 and SR500.
*The early 1978-1984 models require the chain adjusters from the 1985+ models.

None of the universal footpegs can be fitted to any model as is.
Installation requires making brackets to match the footpeg dimensions, welding and other modification.

Normal use, such as lifting off the seat, is not a problem.
However, if you stand on the pegs with your full weight and go over a large bump,
we cannot rule out the possibility that something gets damaged.
So far there have been no reports of bending or similar issues, but please think of it as "just lifting off the seat".

There is no concern about oil coming out during installation, but
there is a slight possibility of seepage from the gasket around the bolts.
The right-side fin section is a dummy cover, so no oil comes out.

This is likely due to the shift pedal position.
★Change the mounting angle on the engine-side shift shaft (the splined part where the shift arm attaches) by moving it one spline at a time
or
★Adjust the length of the pillow-ball link joining the shift arm and shift pedal to raise the shift pedal height. (It can be adjusted by loosening the M6 nut that locks it and turning it.)

No. It is designed for the included 5-3/4 headlight (H4 bulb).

Electric meters from the '95 model year onward can. The tachometer cannot.

Our meters and meters for Japanese bikes do not fit.
*Japanese meters show 60km/h when the meter cable turns at 1400rpm.
(On a '92 XL, 60km/h is shown at 2240rpm.)

A 2:1 meter fits.
Reference: http://www.neofactory.co.jp/product_detail/001535/

We have no data, so it is unknown.
You will need to adjust the handlebar sweep angle and height, and if you can't avoid interference,
modification such as trimming the cowl will be needed.

The Daytona catalog lists the Norton tank width as 305mm.
The lower inner width of the ARROW cowling is about 300mm, so there may be interference.

Fitting the SR-specific bracket to the universal cowl requires the following work:

• Drilling 4 holes in the tank sides to match the bracket
(The margin around the mounting holes is slightly smaller than on the SR version, so durability may be lower than the original SR version, but the early-production units have been used without problems.)
• Cutting the parts that interfere when the handlebar is turned
• Cutting the parts that interfere with the lower stem

----------------------
If the modification is difficult for you, we can also do it if you send us the cowl.
Modification fee: ¥4,320
(Includes extending the tank side sections. Marks from the extension may remain, and sanding may be needed when painting.)

Lead time: about two weeks after we confirm receipt of the item.

It is the 5.00-16 inch center valve tube.
*The side valve tube is for wheel kits we sold in the past.

Building a wheel kit takes [about 10 days from the day the wheel arrives at our shop].
*It may be slightly delayed depending on our workload. Thank you for your understanding.
Wheel building option service here

Building with customer-supplied rims, spokes, etc. costs 30% more in labor.
Also, if the parts turn out to be "impossible to build" during assembly, labor will still be charged.
Wheel building option service here

They are as follows:

• Tires compatible with the 3.00-16 rim
120/90 4.50/4.75 MR90
130/80 5.00/5.10
130/90 5.00/5.10 MT90
140/80 5.50/6.00
140/90 5.50/6.00 MU90
150/80 6.00/6.25 MV85
150/90 6.00/6.25 MV85

• Tires compatible with the 2.15-19 rim
80/90 2.50/2.75 MH90
90/90 2.75/3.00 MJ90
100/90 3.25/3.50 MM90
110/90 3.75/4.00 MN90
120/90 4.25/4.50 MR90

• Tires compatible with the 2.15-21 rim
80/90 2.50/2.75 MH90
90/90 2.75/3.00 MJ90
100/90 3.25/3.50 MM90
110/90 3.75/4.00 MN90
120/90 4.25/4.50 MR90

We don't know.

The rim widths recommended by tire manufacturers (Dunlop, etc.) are as follows:
180 4.5～5.5
170 3.5～4.5
130 2.5～3.5
*They vary slightly depending on aspect ratio.
Based on these figures, we think fitting a 180 tire would be difficult.
*A 170/80 is within range, so that should be fine.
*Fitting a 130 tire on a 2.15 rim is common in customs, but
we have never seen a 180 on a 3.5, so we are a little concerned.

Please contact the tire manufacturer directly about this.

It cannot be fitted.
*The front is the same as the early SR, but our kit is for the 2nd-4th generation.
*The rear is completely different.

It cannot be fitted.

We do not carry stainless spokes compatible with the stock rim.
*We do not take one-off spoke orders due to cost, lead time and quantity.

*The DS250 front hub is the same as the "SR 3rd generation", so with an SR 3rd-gen front rim it can be built with G5-00074.
This item has been discontinued.

*With the DS250 stock rim, they are slightly too short and cannot be used.

The chain cover mounting bracket interferes with the tire, so that part needs to be cut.
With a 120 size tire, it may not touch depending on the tire profile.

If cut, a tire width of 157 interferes with the chain, but in practice the chain also swings, so we think up to 140 size is safe.
*The widest 16 inch tire we carry is the Firestone (approx. 137mm wide).

They are for disc brakes (we handle drum-brake bikes by the lacing pattern).
However, even with discs, depending on the hub, the hole direction may not match or the hole order may differ, requiring spokes laced differently, so a rim change alone may not work.
As for the angle, hubs we offer in our kits (including 21) are within range.
As for the pattern, we think the only way is to judge with the actual parts.

For the following reasons we cannot sell at a realistic price, so we do not accept custom orders.

• Prototyping spokes and creating data takes several hours or more.
• Lead times are unstable and could take about 3 months.
• The spokes may then need further adjustment.
• They can only be made in 5 sets or more (the price is the same even for 1 set).

Processing costs are high and there are many uncertainties, so we do not really recommend it.

Price: ¥12960 per wheel, ¥25920 front and rear
Process: strip plating, mask threads with nipples, black chrome plating
Lead time: 1 to 1.5 months, varies with factory workload

*Plating makes threads harder to engage, so threads are masked with nipples, and those areas do not turn black.
*If you bring new spokes, you need to specify the masking position.
*The black may not cover evenly and may look grayish - in other words, it may be uneven.

I'm researching parts to build my W800 into something like a Grasstracker. I'd like to convert the front wheel to 18 inch and fit a Pirelli Scorpion, but I couldn't find 18 inch spokes. Can your shop supply such spokes?
I'd like to order them even if they need to be custom-made. I'd appreciate your reply. Thank you.

-----------------------------------

For the following reasons we cannot sell at a realistic price, so we do not accept custom orders.

• Prototyping spokes and creating data takes several hours or more.
• Lead times are unstable and could take about 3 months.
• The spokes may then need further adjustment.
• They can only be made in 5 sets or more (the price is the same even for 1 set).

Regarding conversion to 16 inch or 21 inch,
spokes that perfectly match the hub and rim are required.
*The chance of building it with off-the-shelf spokes as is is extremely low.

Please note that we do not carry spokes that fit your bike's hub.

With the above in mind, regarding one-off spoke production:
* Send us the hub you plan to use (round-trip shipping paid by the customer).
* We check whether the hub can be used with a universal rim.

----------------
If not possible:
We return it with shipping charged to you (collect).

----------------
If possible:
* Send us the hub, rim and spokes you plan to use (round-trip shipping paid by the customer).
Price: from ¥21,600 (per set)
*+¥10,800 (per set) for hubs that require a change in lacing pattern, etc.
Lead time: 3-4 months (it may take much longer - over six months - in some cases)

2.0kgf front and rear.
*For bikes with stiff suspension or rigid frames, we sometimes set it around 1.5 for ride comfort.

[Front] Both 4.00 and 4.50 fit without problems if the fender is removed.
[Rear] 5.00-17 does not fit. *4.50-17 fits.

[Rear] It interferes slightly with the swingarm, but it seems it can be fitted depending on how much the chain has stretched.
*Strictly in terms of fitment, it does not fit.

[Front] With both 4.00 and 4.50, the tire interferes with the exhaust pipe at full stroke.
We modify the fork to reduce its stroke by about 30mm.

It cannot be fitted to a 1.60 rim width.

*Mounting itself may be possible, but it greatly exceeds the allowable range,
and we cannot guarantee safety, so we consider it not compatible.

They can be fitted as is.

We think the values are very close, but these tires are not labeled with a controlled aspect ratio, so we can't know without mounting them on a proper rim and measuring.
*We have not measured them.

We mount tires at a pressure of roughly 4kPa or less.

The swingarm reinforcement interferes, so you need to relocate the reinforcement
or grind down the area where it contacts.

Yes, it can.

Universal mufflers cannot be fitted to any model as is.
*Installation requires modification and some ingenuity.
For details, please see below.

★Slip-on muffler
A muffler kit that can be fitted to the stock exhaust pipe

★Full exhaust
A set of an original exhaust pipe and muffler

It comes down to whether the silencer's exhaust efficiency and resistance are within the fuel-injection system's correction range.

Slip-on mufflers for each model are not designed to match the stock settings of FI (fuel-injected) bikes.
*Installing one significantly changes exhaust efficiency, and the bike may not deliver its intended performance.

To adjust fueling, please use the product below.
Product name: Special Agent Negotiator SR400 main unit + communication device
Part No.: EPCS-1008-00

Unless otherwise stated, our mufflers have different exhaust resistance from the stock muffler, changing the intake/exhaust balance, so we recommend carburetor tuning.
Adjustments differ depending on the air cleaner and other parts fitted, so please check and decide on the actual bike.

It is φ42.7mm with a 1.5mm wall, so the inner diameter is φ39.7mm.

Stock exhaust pipes have slight dimensional variations, so exhaust may leak.
This product has a straight-through design and the pressure inside the muffler is not very high, so we think there is little effect on output, but some soot may build up. If it bothers you, please use liquid gasket.
(Available at hardware stores and motorcycle supply stores.)

TYPE 2 uses bolts to secure the end cap (TYPE 1 uses rivets).

【TYPE1】
Pros: no heads, for a clean and simple look
Cons: the end cap cannot be removed easily (possible if you can re-rivet it)

【TYPE2】
Pros: the end cap is bolt-on and removable (you can replace the wool yourself)
Cons: may loosen if the bolts are not tightened properly

The muffler body is the same, so it can be fitted.
*Only '01-'03 models have a different insertion length, so it cannot be fitted to those.

The 60th model mainly features a different tank color, with no changes to the engine or muffler, so FI-compatible mufflers can be used as is.
*Please purchase the muffler for the correct model year.

The muffler at the URL below is the 5th-generation version.
This item has been discontinued.
Product page (old ID 123508)

Q.
After changing the muffler, I get quite a lot of afterfire when I close the throttle. Will an AIS cancel reduce it on a carbureted bike as well? The air cleaner and exhaust pipe are stock.
Also, if you have carburetor setting data for the same conditions, could you share it?

A.
If afterfire occurs, an AIS cancel is required even on carbureted bikes.
After canceling the AIS, adjusting the pilot screw should mostly fix it; if not, we think there is another cause.

*Afterfire can also be caused by secondary air being drawn in near the manifold, or from the flange side of the exhaust pipe.

As for setting data, every bike is different, so there is no definitive data.
You can ask a nearby shop to tune it, or enjoy doing it yourself.

*Our shop tunes using a Keyster fuel adjustment kit.
*All bikes made after emission regulations run lean, so it's good to richen the mixture overall.

Yes, but we have never actually fitted one, so we don't know how it performs.

[About stalling cases]
Of the many units we have sold, we have received only one report.
It has never happened on our test bike, but it may occur depending on riding conditions.

[If the symptom occurs]
Tuning the fueling with an injection controller is probably the best approach, but increasing exhaust resistance with our "quieting modification" also helps.

*This muffler has no catalytic converter.
For exhaust balance, a catalytic converter acts as resistance, and exhaust gas cleaning is a chemical reaction as gas passes through, so we think it has essentially the same effect as the "quieting modification" above.

Q.
I recently bought your "TAPERED CONE slip-on muffler SR400/500, carbureted ('78-'00/'04-'07)", the "NIBBI PWK38 carburetor kit SR400/500", and pilot jet and main jet sets. Do you have specific settings or track records for tuning the fueling of this carburetor (main jet and pilot jet sizes, etc.)? My SR400 is a 2007 3rd generation, and the exhaust pipe is stock.

A.
There is no fixed setting because of differences between bikes, intake/exhaust setups and carburetors, but with our tapered cone silencer and a stock exhaust pipe, adjusting just the air screw from the factory setting is often enough. If you use an air cleaner, main jet selection depends on how much intake restriction it has. With the oval air cleaner we sell, we often change to a main jet of around #120. The trick to tuning is to accurately understand how the bike behaves at a fixed throttle opening.

Q.
I installed it right away and started the engine, and it was popping, so I installed the AIS canceler as instructed and did a test ride. The popping stopped, but now the engine stalls. It rarely stalled before (it stalls while riding). Also, after stalling it is harder to start. Please let me know if there is a way to avoid this.

A.
Besides the AI plate, possible remedies are as follows:
• Fuel adjustment with a sub-computer, such as Rapid Bike Easy or Power Commander. We once adjusted fueling with the Negotiator we used to carry, and while not 100%, there have been cases where it improved. We have only done fuel adjustment with the Negotiator, so the effect of other products is unknown.
• Cleaning the air cleaner, or replacing it depending on condition.
• Replacing the spark plug
• Using a fuel additive such as Fuel One.
and so on. We can't say for certain, but if mileage is low (under 3000km), fuel adjustment is likely to be effective. If the bike has over 3000km, the other items may also help, so please try them. The main cause of stalling on the SR FI is a lean air/fuel ratio. A lean mixture also raises combustion temperature and makes engine overheating more likely. We once saw a bike that had been ridden lean for a long time, reducing the exhaust valve seal and making afterfire and stalling severe.

This product is designed to be installed as is on FI bikes, but there is some variation from bike to bike.
If mild, it should have almost no effect on the bike, but if the symptom occurs frequently, please try the following product (from another company).

Product name: AI Cancel Plug Kit
Part No.: WM-12073A-00
http://www.wmpdt.co.jp/bikes/estrella.html

If the symptom does not improve even after installing the AI Cancel Plug Kit, possible causes include
• The band or flange at the base of the header pipe is loose and drawing in secondary air
• The cam chain has stretched and the cam timing has shifted

and so on may be the cause.
If there is no problem with the above 2 points and the symptom persists, please contact us.

Strictly speaking, the exhaust pipe is probably the same as adjacent model years, but differences appear when fitting.
The cylinder head differs between up to '99, '01-'03 and '04-,
so that is very likely the cause, but we could not find an answer on the several bikes we checked.
We can't tell from the exhaust pipe alone, but if your SR (engine) is a 2002 model, the '01-'03 version should fit. Thank you.

Regarding your inquiry
We can make it if you specify the dimensions, bend angle and swing angle (accurate instructions are required in this case).
*We cannot make fine adjustments; dimensions must be fully specified.

The price is about ¥11000-¥17000, depending on the shape.
If the price is acceptable, please send each dimension. We will send a formal quote.

Lead time: about 2 weeks or more after confirmation

I recently bought your trumpet muffler and its dedicated silencer and was happily riding. After a while the glass wool blew out and it got louder, so I repacked it.

I didn't want to repack it frequently and wanted it to stay that way for a long time, so I packed it with stainless wool (coarse), but it didn't get deeper and stayed loud.

Since then I've tried various materials and packed it more or less tightly, but I can't get the sound (deep tone) I want.
Using this silencer, please tell me:
1. The setup used in the video you uploaded
2. Effective long-term quieting. Thank you.

------------------------

Outside our stainless wool, pack as much glass wool as will just fit.
This is the method we recommend considering lifespan, quieting and effort.

As for a deep tone, we think it is difficult with the trumpet + this dedicated inner silencer.
The straight section has a small diameter, so the sound tends to be high-pitched and crisp.
Therefore, we think improving the tone is difficult without a major rebuild.

*A completely different, rough method: putting a few stainless steel scrubbers deep inside the original perforated inner silencer gives a nicely deeper tone, but we have no performance data, so we can't say whether we recommend it.

I'm currently using a reverse cone. Is there an inner baffle for it?
Is there a dedicated part, or can you make one? And how much would it cost?
It's quite loud and it's a problem for me. I tried making one myself but it didn't change much. Please help.

------------------------

Regarding your inquiry

• Wool repacking ¥6480
Stainless wool + glass wool
It becomes a muffled, deep tone and is reasonably quieter, but not quiet.
The quieting effect is greater than the original wool.

• Welding a quieting baffle inside ¥6480
Reducing the inner diameter quiets it further and changes the tone, removing some of the low end.
Power characteristics change, shifting from high rpm toward low-mid rpm.

Lead time: ships about 1 week after arrival (excluding weekends)

It can be quieted by reducing the area of the exhaust path with perforated mesh, which increases the silencing effect.

*Due to the change in exhaust balance, we expect high rpm (5000-7000rpm) to drop slightly, but this range is rarely used in town; the muffler was originally designed to boost torque in the commonly used 3000-5000rpm range, so we expect little effect there.
This is a paid service, but if you send us the muffler we can carry out the silencing modification.
Price: ¥5000 + tax
Lead time: about 1-2 weeks after arrival

[Before quieting]
Idle 1200RPM 88.3dB
3500RPM 101.3db
[After quieting]
Idle 1200RPM 83.5dB
3500RPM 97.2db

Painting is possible under the following conditions, so please review them before deciding.

Price: from ¥10800
Lead time: about 1-2 months
*The process is disassembly, wool removal, shipping to the factory, painting, and reassembly.
*If the wool is stuck and cannot be removed cleanly, it will be replaced with new wool (+¥3240).

Wool replacement and lead time are as follows:
Wool replacement (dedicated pre-formed wool) ¥7,000 + tax
Lead time: 1 week

Stainless mufflers generally discolor.
*Almost every stainless muffler made for the SR does this.

This is a bit different from rust, and it comes back with ordinary metal polish.
The usual way to care for a stainless muffler is to protect it with heat-resistant wax to limit discoloration and polish it with metal polish.

Stock exhaust pipes have slight dimensional variations, so exhaust may leak.
This product has a straight-through design and the pressure inside the muffler is not very high, so we think there is little effect on output, but some soot may build up. If it bothers you, please use liquid gasket.
(Available at hardware stores and motorcycle supply stores.)

There is no noticeable difference.

TAPERED CONE muffler: internally tuned to suit both FI and carbureted bikes, stainless steel
MEGAPHONE muffler: universal, so tuning to suit the bike is required, steel

The center stand can be fitted without the center stand stopper.
*
However, when the center stand is retracted, it stops by hitting the base of the passenger footrest, so the center stand itself and the footrest base will get scratched.
If this bothers you, please purchase the center stand stopper.

Afterfire also occurs with the stock muffler, and its cause is the AI (air induction system).
*The stock muffler is quiet to begin with, so afterfire is hard to notice.

If the afterfire sound bothers you, it can be eliminated with an AIS cancel plate.
*Included with G4-00161 and G4-00162.

*It may still occur even with the AI plate. This is due to individual bike variation and can't be helped.
*If it still occurs with the AI plate, we assume the cause is fueling or something else.

At our shop, the AI plate has almost always solved it in the past.

Measured at 45 degrees to the rear, 50cm away, holding rpm within ±3% for 5 seconds and then snapping the throttle closed.
*This time the values are the average of 3 measurements with 2 meters.

1500rpm：87.1db
3250rpm：96.7db
5000rpm：105.2db

Q.
I drilled out the rivets on the muffler end (4 places, plus, just in case, the 2 brand logo rivets) and tried to remove the muffler end, but it's stuck and won't come off.

A.
To remove the baffle, use a plastic or wooden mallet and tap lightly and evenly around the circumference while applying force in the removal direction; it should come out more easily.

Parts compatibility varies slightly by production lot, so
it is possible if you send it to us first so we can check whether it can be repaired and give you a quote.

The 250TR exhaust pipe insertion section is 38.1mm, so
the inner diameter of the tapered cone muffler is about 38.1+0.1.

The engine is the same, but
• the header pipe shape is slightly different
• compatibility of the frame-side bracket position is unknown
• the FI specs are different

For these reasons, we do not know whether it can be used.

It cannot be fitted.

The T100 has a different header pipe, so it cannot be installed.

*If you do not have a center stand installed, we can sell it made to order.
*The price is the same
*We do not know about the tuning; if it does not suit, you will need to tune it yourself.

VANCE&HINES quiet baffles reduce noise by 2-3dB, but
this product reduces noise by 7dB (at idle), and the difference in volume is obvious even by feel.

With this silencer's design, packing wool would completely block the passage,
and the bike would not run properly, so please do not use wool.
In this silencer, exhaust flows from the exhaust pipe → the first 8 holes → the space between the inner silencer and the muffler body
→ the last 8 holes → out
and reducing the number of holes, for example by wrapping metal tape, makes it quieter, but
reducing too many will make the bike not run well, so do it one hole at a time.
The holes are arranged around the circumference, and one wrap covers 4 holes, so for holes you don't want to block,
you need to open the tape after wrapping.
We think it is best to go no further than about 8-7, 7-7, 7-6 or 6-6. (Output gradually drops.)
*Installing the center M8 bolt makes it slightly quieter; removing it makes it slightly louder.

The inside of the pipe is not straight; there is a baffle plate in the middle, and after hitting the plate, exhaust flows from inside the pipe to the outside,
then back inside again before exiting.
The volume can also be adjusted slightly by attaching or removing the included bolt on the baffle plate.

It can be fitted if the silencer type is the same, but it is designed for the Sportster.
In some cases power may drop significantly.

This bolt is installed in the center, inside the inner silencer.
Installing or removing the bolt changes volume and exhaust efficiency (slightly), but
its main purpose is as "a hole for passing the air/fuel ratio sensor tube during chassis dyno measurement".

This product is designed to reduce volume considerably, so the amount of fuel the engine needs and the rpm range differ greatly compared with not fitting this silencer.
The bike will run if you just install the silencer, but there is a high chance the plugs will foul and it will start running poorly, so we think retuning is basically essential.

Yes, it can be installed.

Yes, it can be installed.
*All Side Shots and Short Shots Staggered can be fitted.
The data shown is for 2004 and later models.
Other models may differ in volume and performance.

This silencer does not require glass wool.

The outer diameter of the mounting section is about 50.8mm.

We have no examples of use with Straight Shots, so we can't say.
*If the dimensions match, it should fit without problems, and some quieting effect can be expected.

When our inner silencer is installed, the values become somewhat unusual, so at present there is no Fuelpak 3 data for our inner silencer.

Therefore, you will need to use the auto-tuning function, etc., and create the data yourself to some extent.
With a little work, we think tuning is well worth it.

We can of course help with Bluetooth connection and the setup procedure itself, but we refrain from advising on the input values themselves.

For simple tuning with a flash tuner, we have similar data, so we can do the work if you visit our shop.
In this case it costs ¥70,000 including tax.

We recommend this for those who are not very familiar or comfortable with mechanics and computers.
Thank you for considering it.

This silencer does not require glass wool.

★Universal tanks
Installation requires modification for the bike (see below).
• Drilling and tapping holes for mounting the tank, welding brackets, etc.
• Modifying the tunnel to match the main frame width (not always needed)
*We cannot answer detailed installation methods for each model.
*A cap, petcock, plug bolts, etc. are required separately.

★Model-specific tanks
Everything needed for installation comes as a set.
(Cap, petcock, mounting brackets, hose, filter, etc.)

The basic modification work needed to fit our universal steel tanks is as follows.
Please note that we do not publish details for each model.

-----------------------------------
** Mounting to the frame is required
Drill holes in the existing brackets, or weld brackets to the tank itself
Fit nuts to the frame side (or tap threads)
*To prevent it from falling off due to vibration, solid brackets and anti-vibration measures are required.

-----------------------------------
** If the tank tunnel doesn't fit over the main frame
Modify or remake the tunnel
*Welds made during modification must be precise so that fuel does not leak.

-----------------------------------
** If brackets near the main frame interfere
Cut, relocate, or otherwise deal with the interfering parts

It makes rust less likely to form inside the tank, which helps prevent troubles such as carburetor overflow.

Stock tanks are treated inside, so it is basically unnecessary.
If it has rusted even once, or if it is an aftermarket tank with an untreated interior, we recommend coating.

From ¥20,000 (+ tax).
*The price varies with the tank size, shape and whether rust removal is needed.
*For example, a tank the size of a stock SR or smaller that needs no rust removal is ¥20,000.

*Tanks with non-removable parts inside cannot be coated.
Also, tanks that have already been coated may not be coatable.

It is an EMGO replacement tank for the T120 '66-'70, but
we have no other detailed fitment data.
We are sorry, but please judge from the images and dimensions.

FRP tanks are black to begin with, but this is not painted black and is not a "clean black".
It can be used as is, but it will discolor and fade over time, so we recommend painting it.

FRP products get unavoidable scuff marks during manufacturing, such as when removed from the mold.
Slight fading is also considered "within the acceptable range for FRP products".
Please understand that it is intended as a base for painting.

FRP tanks do not need coating.

FRP is black to begin with, but this is not painted black and is not a "clean black".
It can be used as is, but it will discolor and fade over time, so we recommend painting it.

FRP products get unavoidable scuff marks during manufacturing, such as when removed from the mold.
Slight fading is also considered "within the acceptable range for FRP products".
Please understand that it is intended as a base for painting.

The "Pipe Work Fender Kit" we carry can be fitted even with a FIRESTONE.

Below is the compatible lineup as of July 2014.

FOR HD39mm-FORK

FOR SR400/500

FOR 250TR

FOR ESTRELLA

FOR GRASSTRACKER

It seems FRP products can also crack (deform) if repeatedly flexed beyond 30° or around 0°.
The sides of this product are flat and flex easily, so it is possible that deformation has changed its dimensions.

It is fine to tighten the front holes on the sides.
At the rear, the original outer mounting width of this product is 193mm, so
if it is almost unchanged, it should be fine to tighten it as is.
If it is 190mm or less, it may crack at that dimension, so
using washers from a hardware store as spacers should be fine.
It is in inches, but M8 washers can be used instead.

Springs are not supported for the following reasons:
• The front of the seat also serves as the tank mount
• The lower bracket is not designed for repeated loads amplified by springs
• The rear mounting position and angle would shift
Thank you for your understanding.

On '04-'06, there seem to be electrical components under the seat that interfere.
Our bracket is designed to just fit '10 and later.

*'07-'09 also have large electrical components, so they interfere.

The SR400 FI has a different front seat mount shape, so it cannot be fitted as is, but
it can be fitted using the Easyriders product below. http://www.easyriders.jp/webstore/details_hd.php?syohin_code=NT1369

The cowl-shaped section at the rear of this seat interferes with the fender.
*The Easyriders fenderless kit ¥11,500, Part No. NT0573, can be used.

We currently offer it only for the SR, and whether it fits other models is unknown.
It can be fitted to other models by making a manifold, but we cannot answer whether a 38φ bore is suitable.

Please note that we do not make one-off manifolds for mail-order customers.

Its construction differs slightly from the stock carb, but
the process is basically the same, so if you can disassemble and assemble the stock carb, the big carb should be easy too.
If you are unsure about the work, please ask a shop.

There is no major difference.

We think the PWK large body (32?-38) is fine, but
small bodies such as the 28 have a different carb top cover shape, so we have no data on whether it fits.

*If the spring strength is not appropriate,
the throttle valve may stick when used on a 4-stroke, but
this has nothing to do with the cable, so please keep that in mind.

Factory default settings
Main jet 130
Pilot jet 50
Needle clip position: 3rd from top

With the 60φ power filter fitted and the settings unchanged,
the engine stalls when pulling away after idling for a while.

Main jet 130
Pilot jet 42
Needle clip position: 2nd from top
Air screw: 2 turns out

These settings greatly improve the symptom.
*Values differ depending on the muffler fitted, etc., so please use them as a guideline.

Slow jet = pilot jet.
Please purchase a pilot jet.

The air filter cannot be washed with water.
To clean it, blow the dirt out with compressed air from the inside of the filter.
Be careful not to blow too hard, as this will damage the filter.

If dirt can't be removed with compressed air, or if deteriorated filter fibers scatter when blown, we recommend replacing it.
Other than in the cases above, regular replacement is ideal.
Depending on usage, we recommend replacing it every 10000km or once a year.

For the big carb float and fuel level, the actual fuel level cannot be measured due to the carburetor's construction.
Please adjust the fuel level by adjusting the float height.

Please refer to the attached image for the factory float height.

The manifold inner diameter is about φ42mm and it is very flexible, so you push it on to fit.
There has never been a problem with fitting NIBBI carbs, so rest assured.

There is no problem if you prepare the surface the same way as for normal painting.